Monday
13th July 2015 - one of those days!
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| Last view of Streaky Bay |
Rain
stayed at bay for Moose to pack up the outside of the van while I found a home
for everything inside. He asked me to check the brake lights so being a good
Moz I walked to the back of the van as he towed it out. The red lights flashed
so I yelled to the Moose that they were working (you have to yell its a long way from the back of the van to the front of the car). Two guys were standing elbowing each other, in the manner men do when
cracking a joke; and laughing with Moose outside their van which was level with
the front of the car. I yell again the lights are working, he yells back "yeah
ok are you running behind me or getting in" they all laugh loudly".
Geez acknowledgement of the first time I let him know the lights were working
would be good. So I let it be known that Moose would be getting a slap around the
ear" All but Moose thought this was funny!
Really is going to be one of those days. As we drove down the Main Street I
noticed the trendy coffee shop was open. I suggested moose could stop for me to
pick up a nice coffee. He answers with "you've had a coffee" I
pointed out I didn't as the milk wasn't nice and it would be a considerate
gesture if he were to stop. He said he could turn around if I wanted. Being
considerate myself I answered “no, tis ok. The bakery will have them too”
Grudgingly
he said “I'll stop then if you’re that
desperate”. He stopped and asked for a custard tart. I answered “I'll get one
for you, if you’re that disparate!
We hit the road at 8.20 am it was wet from last night and this morning’s rain
but the sun is rising high in the sky. There is no traffic to speak of and
radio 693kHz is playing some strange music I've never heard before. Crocheting
my way through little towns of Poochera - Minnipa – Yanninee - Wudinna - Kyancutta
and turn left, well Moose missed the turn driving straight so a u turn was
needed to put us in the right direction for Kimba and Pt Augusta.
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| has Moose been freelancing? |
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| Kimba All Sorts Craft Shop - Chris & Me |
Driving through Kimba I spied fabric bolts in a window. Moose whinged about
parking on the street as there weren't many parks big enough for the Ute and
the van but he eventually found a spot. As I jumped out of the Ute He was heard
to say: “don't be long”. I laughed and laughed as I opened the door into the
Aladdin’s cave that was “Kimba All Sorts”. Chris spear, the store owner was
hidden behind the counter wrapt up in a
thick jacket and 2 scarves, she was in the midst of finding a home for wool, embroidery
threads, patterns, needles, fabric and much more as she had just moved from
across the road. We shared a chat and had a photo together. If you’re ever in
Kimba drop in and say hello to Chris.
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| Moose doing his "Silly Galah" joke for the boys |
A little
further down the road we have stopped at the Big Galah, a huge fibreglass
structure that was always popular with the kids. The souvenir shop next door
has a sign across the window telling us we are half way across Australia. This
has always been our stop when we pass this town, which is probably why I never
knew there was a craft shop in the main street.
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| Bonnie joining in on the fun |
Back on
the road I look up from my crochet to see Iron Knob looming ahead of us. I tried
to take photos alongside the huge mine but Moose couldn't slow down due to
traffic behind us.
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| Waterway near Pt Augusta |
We have travelled
through farmland and low scrub but now on the other side of iron knob it
doesn't look a hell of a lot different from the Nullabor. Never ending plains
with salt bush. A short time later we are driving over waterway into Pt
Augusta, more salt bush.
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| Road through Pitchie Ritchie Pass |
We travel through Pitchie Ritchie pass where Steam trains can still be seen
running along the tracks that were built in 1878, thanks to volunteers from the
Preservation society. - photo of road through hills
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| empty streets in Quorn |
A stretch
and coffee in Quorn which is a large town. It’s very quiet with wide roads and
old buildings. Stephen King could of based books here as it is a little unsettling
seeing shops, houses and other buildings but absolutely no people. We topped up
the fuel and thanks to the cold weather Moose informs me we made a saving as
the fuel contracts in the cold so it registers less through the meter then
expands in your tank so you end up with a bit more for your money.
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| Kanaka Homestead ruins |
As we came through the ranges we seen a large area of ruins just off the main
road which turned out to be the old Kanaka homestead - this was well
worth a stop. It had originally been built by Hugh Proby, an Irish lad (3rd
son of the Earl of Carysfort).
He had come to South Australia unlike other
pioneers, not to invest in property for housing but looking for farm land to
set up a cattle run. He died a couple of years later from drowning in a
flooding creek. The next lease holder died before even seeing the property,
getting lost in the bush. But then John Randal Phillips took over the lease,
changed from cattle to sheep and had much success.
During the 1864 season
41,000 sheep were shorn, employing an army of musterers, shearers, wool
classers, packers and teamsters. At this time the homestead was made up of the
16 roomed homestead, overseer’s cottage, stables, men’s kitchen, sheds huts, a
huge woolshed, carpenter and blacksmith sheds and nearly 40 kms of dry stone
wall fencing. Living in this nearly self-sufficient station was 70 families.
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| Bonnie checking things out |
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| Hawker |
We drove through Hawker another old railway town which was a busy place between
1880 and 1956 but not so much now.
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| Road to Rawnsley Park Station |
Finally just before the sun disappeared out
of the sky, we arrived at our destination: Rawnsley Park Station.
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| Ruins frequently pop up |
This is a
working sheep station with approx. 3500 Sheep plus it’s an award winning Tourism
Park which attracts 20,000 visitors a year. There’s sheep crossing the road in
front of us and on our left on the way in there is restaurant. Moose had looked
this campsite up ages ago and read reviews that suggested the non-powered bush
camping area was quieter and had better views than the powered sites. So we
booked one of those at the reception/general store. They took our money and
pointed us towards a road that disappeared into the bush. We drove away from
the cluster of powered vans til there were no more, just the odd tent on a
hill. There is only phone reception at the camp kitchen which isn’t helpful
when I realise I need to send cottage details through to Tomas as he is heading
down to Walpole for the last week of the school holidays with Eleesha and
Preston. So once we had the van settled in its’ spot, we drove back to the camp
kitchen. Which is a huge room with about 8 dining room settings, a couple of
lounge suites, a large flat screen TV, 4 big bbqs across the width of the back
of the room and a Kent fire (those
square wood heaters). The place is bustling. Men have taken over the bbqs.
Families sit at tables talking while others, ourselves included send out texts.
One lady loudly talks on her phone. Doesn't seem like it's her fault, more the
person in the other end is hard of hearing.
Once our messages are sent we head back to the van where the gas heater has
warmed it up beautifully. Dinner and an episode of peaky blinders and we head
to bed with our books.
Tuesday
14th July
2015
Moose is up early to watch the sun rise and change the colours of the rock
face of Wilpena Pound (Wilpena Pound is a
remnant valley floor from an ancient range of mountains that have been eroding
away over millions of years. It was used in the early years as an enclosure for
sheep/cattle. The pound is approx. 17 km long by 8 km wide).
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| Wilpena Pound |
I tried to
explain to him that if there is cloud cover which I noticed there was when Moose
flicked the curtains earlier; there will be no changing of colours. So I
suggested he step out into the freezing cold and check if the rock was changing
colours with the sun and its shadows and let me know. The heater had
automatically started at 5.30 am, so the van was way too cosy to leave. Out he
went, there was obviously no amazing colour change as he decided to open the
awning, peg down a ground cover, set up Bonnie's run rope (she has to be kept
on a leash) and any number of other noisy endeavours.
Once up
with a hot coffee in hand, I could see the complete cloud cover hiding the
pound and ranges with soft drizzling rain making it look like a good day to
stay inside. Bonnie's attached to her
leash stood staring out to the bush wishing she could run free.
Moose and
I sat reading then headed down to the little shop to get organise our gas bottle being refilled. The staff were busy changing shifts as it was lunch time
so we had to leave it there and come back and collect later in the afternoon. We hadn't realised the time going in so now we were aware it was lunch time we
headed back to the van for lunch. Followed by an afternoon of alternating
between reading and napping.
Moose
headed back to pick up the gas bottle while I continued reading – once I get
into a good book I don’t want to put it away. Looking down at the floor in the
van there is a pattern of little paw prints. Moose had carefully wiped Bonnies' feet every time she came inside but the heavens had opened up as we got back
from the shop at lunch time so Miss Bonnie ran straight inside. I could be
convinced they are very artistic and meant to be there!
As I sit
in our warm van I hear squeals of delight. Looking out the window towards the
sound I can see 3 toddlers wrapped up in padded wet weather coats, beanies with
big pom poms, on their heads, mittens keeping their hands warm and water boots
(wellies). They are taking turns racing through the huge puddles. The skies are
still sending drizzle down upon them, a freezing cold wind is blowing but they
don’t notice it, they are having way too much fun.
Moose had
returned with a full gas bottle, so running the heater wasn’t going to be a
problem. We got back to our books, next time we looked at a clock it was 4 pm.
Bonnie has been curled up on her mat under the bed all this time.
Steve had
heard on the radio that the powers that be have been baiting throughout the
Flinders Ranges due to the amount of feral cats. We have certainly seen a few cats
in our travels. It’s only recently that the restocking of Quolls (Carnivorous
Marsupials) from Western Australia has been happening, as the native ones here
have disappeared due to cats. This caused an issue that we don’t even think of
when news about animals becoming extinct is heard. A local aboriginal elder, actually
stopped telling the dream time stories about quolls as they no longer lived
here. But thanks to the restocking she has begun the story telling again. Next
main shopping area we will try to find a mozzle for Bonnie so she can still run
free without being able to eat the baits.
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| There is an emu hiding behind one of these trees! |
Before we
started dinner preparations we decided a walk was a good idea. It was invigorating
to say the least. The breeze had icicles in it. Rain threatened. Even managed
to receive a message from Jess that snuck through on one bar that came through
when we reached the peak of a hill. There was plenty of wildlife around
including Kangaroos bounding across the hills and an emu playing hide and seek
with me trying to take its photo. Luckily for them Bonnie was on the leash.

The rain clouds carried out their threat as we arrived back at the van. We sat
under the awning to watch the rain fall along with more Roos gracefully leaping
across the flat land in front of us. The van is as warm as toast. I put the
kettle on while Moose organised the BBQ.
As the wind picked up and the temperature dropped (about 9.30pm) Bonnie decides
she wants a toilet outing. This is fine and dandy when we can open the door and
throw her out but not here as she has to be kept on a lead and its bloody
freezing outside. Moose took her out then came back in 15 mins later swearing
and cursing. I held back on laughing out loud until he drew breath and realised
he was being ridiculous. Bonnie had to do her poo dance – this is a routine
she’s had since she was a pup. When wanting a poo she literally runs around in
circles which slowly decrease in circumference until she is on the allocated
spot to do the deed. It can take a fair amount of time if she started with a
large circle.
On their
return inside we locked up and climbed into a warm cosy bed and listened in
comfort to the weather outside.
Colour
chasing Moose & Toasty Moz signing out x